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Quality · Sourcing

Single jersey vs interlock vs piqué: knit constructions explained for buyers

The three knit constructions behind almost every tee and polo: how each is made, what it does to weight, stretch, print quality and cost, the curling-and-twisting quirks factories manage, and which construction fits which product.

SR Santosh Rijal
Founder, Trishakti Apparel
2 min read

Nearly every knit tee, polo, and base layer is built on one of three constructions, and that choice fixes the garment’s weight, drape, stability, print surface, and price before any design work begins. What follows is the buyer’s version, including the quirks each construction brings and how a competent factory manages them.

Single jersey Interlock Piqué
Structure One layer Double-knit, two locked layers Tuck-stitch texture
Faces Smooth front, looped back Smooth both sides Waffle face
Typical GSM 140–200 180–240 180–240
Character Light, drapey, economical Stable, substantial, premium Breathable, structured, uniform-grade
Prints Very well (flat face) Very well Bold designs only, texture breaks fine detail
Embroidery Needs stabilising Excellent Excellent, texture hides needlework
Quirks Edge curl, spirality Heavier, costlier Costs more than jersey

What each is actually for

  • Single jersey is the t-shirt: the best drape-to-cost ratio in knitwear. Its edge-curl is handled in cutting; its twist risk is a mill-control issue you spec, not luck.
  • Interlock is the premium option: smooth on both faces, opaque at lighter weights, dimensionally stable, the choice for premium polos, kids’ basics, and garments that must hold shape through industrial washing.
  • Piqué is the polo: breathable texture, embroidery-friendly, professional. The full polo guide covers it in depth.

The spec lines that prevent surprises

Whatever construction you choose, three lines in the tech pack prevent 90% of knit problems: GSM with a tolerance (±5%), shrinkage limit after wash (±5% or better, on compacted fabric), and spirality limit for single jersey. Then wash the sample before approving it — here’s the full approval checklist.

We knit all three constructions in-house programmes from 1,000 pieces per style — tell us the product and we’ll recommend the construction with reasons, not just a price.

Frequently asked

What is the difference between single jersey and interlock?
Single jersey is a one-layer knit, light, cheap, slightly curling at edges, with a smooth face and a looped back. Interlock is a double-knit: two layers locked together, so it’s smooth on both sides, heavier, more stable, and doesn’t curl, at a higher price.
Is interlock better than jersey?
It’s more stable, more opaque, and feels more premium, but it’s heavier, warmer, and costs more per kg. Everyday tees are jersey for good reason; interlock suits premium polos, kidswear, and garments where shape retention matters most.
What is piqué fabric?
A knit with tuck stitches that create a raised waffle/honeycomb texture, the classic polo fabric. The texture breathes, hides needle marks (great for embroidery), and resists showing sweat, which is why uniforms live in piqué.
Why does single jersey twist after washing?
Spirality, the knit’s spiral structure relaxing, so side seams rotate around the body. It’s controlled at the mill by yarn twist selection and finishing; specify a twist tolerance and wash-test the sample before bulk.
SR

About the author

Santosh Rijal runs Trishakti Apparel, the export knitwear factory his family built on three decades in Nepal’s fashion trade. He writes about sourcing, duty and production from the factory floor in Gaindakot.

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