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GSM explained: how to choose t-shirt and polo fabric weight

GSM is the number that most affects how your garment feels and drapes. Here’s what GSM means and which weights work best for t-shirts, polos, and knit basics.

SR Santosh Rijal
Founder, Trishakti Apparel
2 min read

When a factory asks what GSM you want, they’re asking how heavy your fabric should be — and it’s one of the biggest decisions for how your garment feels. Here’s a plain-English guide.

What GSM means

GSM = grams per square metre — the fabric’s weight. Lower GSM = lighter, thinner, more breathable. Higher GSM = heavier, thicker, more premium-feeling and durable. It’s not “better or worse,” it’s fit-for-purpose.

Rough GSM guide for knit basics

Garment Typical GSM Feel
Lightweight tee 140–160 Thin, breathable, summer
Standard tee 160–200 The everyday sweet spot
Premium / heavyweight tee 200–240+ Structured, boxy, premium
Pique polo 180–220 Classic polo body

How to choose

  • Match your market — fashion/streetwear leans heavier (200+); basics and hot climates lean lighter.
  • Heavier fabric costs more (more fibre) — balance feel against price.
  • Always judge GSM on a physical sample, not a number on paper.

Not sure which weight suits your product? We’ll send samples across a GSM range so you can feel the difference. Ask for samples.

Frequently asked

Should I choose 180 gsm or 240 gsm for my t-shirts?
180 gsm is the everyday standard — economical, breathable, right for promo and basics. 240 gsm is the premium/streetwear weight: more structure, better drape on oversized fits, roughly 20–30% more fabric cost. Many brands split the range: essentials at 180, statement drops at 220–240.
What GSM is best for oversized t-shirts?
220–300 gsm. Oversized and boxy fits need fabric with enough body to hold the silhouette — lightweight jersey collapses. Most oversized programmes spec 240 gsm as the floor.
What is GSM in t-shirts?
GSM means grams per square metre — the weight of the fabric. A standard tee is around 160–180 gsm, a premium heavyweight tee 200–240 gsm, and a lightweight promo tee 140–160 gsm. Higher GSM feels more substantial and opaque.
How much does a t-shirt weigh?
Roughly 130–200 grams for a standard adult tee: a 180 gsm cotton tee in size L weighs about 170–180 g, while a heavyweight 240 gsm tee runs 220–260 g. Add 20–40 g for polybag and tags when estimating shipping weight.
How much does a polo shirt weigh?
Typically 200–300 grams depending on size and fabric weight. A 200–220 gsm piqué polo in adult M–L weighs roughly 230–280 g; performance polyester polos run lighter, heavyweight cotton polos heavier.
What GSM is a heavyweight t-shirt?
There’s no fixed standard, but the trade generally calls 200–240 gsm heavyweight, with 240–300 gsm as the ultra-heavy streetwear tier. Compare quotes at the same GSM — “heavyweight” alone is not a spec.
SR

About the author

Santosh Rijal runs Trishakti Apparel, the export knitwear factory his family built on three decades in Nepal’s fashion trade. He writes about sourcing, duty and production from the factory floor in Gaindakot.

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